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Posted by XOskeletonRED on February 28, 2003 at 13:22:52:
In Reply to: Re: Lots of questions.... posted by Altruistic on February 28, 2003 at 12:21:29:
2nd opinion follows questions and 1st opinion.
:
:1. Millipedes, can anyone offer me a web site that sells millipedes that are good for a beginner and guarantees live shipping?
:>>Most sellers guarantee live delivery. Go to Google and type in: Invertepets. Bill's a nice guy, and I'll be ordering more millies soon.
Indeed, almost ALL do and Bill is usually pretty good. I take quite a bit of my bus his way as well as Exopets, gherp, arachnocenter, etc.
: What is the perfect set up for this species, including substrate, decorations, temperature, humidity, etc.,... how much time must I dedicate to them and is there any way to keep them from breeding, or is it very hard to avoid?
:>>Being that most, if not all millies are wild caught, you may very well end up with a gravid female. The set up depends on the specific species. Higher humidity species require more time misting. (for my Giant African Black, I spend maybe 5 minutes, every four days. That's changing food, and such. )However, I do mist her every other day, as her humidity requirements are quite high.
Which species do you want to know about? Well, Gillian is exactly correct on humidity, temp, etc. No remarks needed there for A. gigas. And unless you are the one who discovers how to "fix" a pede or invert, chances are, you'll get some itty bitties sooner or later. Only other way to work around it is to keep them separated, though like Gillian said, many times they are wild caught and also many times are kept together in the stores and will already be gravid (pregnant).
:I am a vegetarian so I would find it difficult to discard millepedes that I couldn't sell or keep.
:>>Truthfully, I'm not certain how this coincides with being a vegetarian. If you had a big enough enclosure, keep most of them. Also, trade them to your local pet shop for supplies.
Concerned about the pedes eating your veggies are you? *lol*
:2. Centipedes: pretty much the same questions, but I have read that rock formations that form labyrinth-like structures will keep it easier for me to view my centipedes. Would it be better for me to keep a centipede in a vertical enclosure, versus the more traditional horizontally structured aquariums? Can I keep more than one in a cage?
:>>Unfortunately, I have no centipedes..YET..;-)
Well, as far as viewing Centipedes, yes, taller structures are best due to Centipedes being rather flat, though the same thing can happen to a pede as any other invert and can be killed by falling. Though inverts are usually quite tough when it comes to falling down from heights, with exception to Ts because their higher weight and softer skin. Same goes with temp etc, with ALL inverts, species vary with how they must be kept and the requirements. You could go with a vertical tank as long as it wasn't too tall.
:3. Scorpions: Same initial questions as above... What is the best species to keep a colony of? What is the name of the scorpion that is sensitive to ultra violet light, and glows? What size cage would be best for a colony of 10 scorpions?
:>>All scorps are sensitive to UV lights. As for colonies, not certain on that.
Almost all scorps are sensitive to solar bulbs (UV) and blacklight (near UV light), but you need not worry. The scorps that are not sensitive to it are not avail in the pet trade and probably never will be. Some Millipedes also have the ability to glow under blacklights. One species of milli native to where I am now will carry a fluorescent blue coloration, while most scorps carry fluorescent green and or yellow. Some scorps, including some Opistophthalmus genus carry the blue tones as well.
Well, as far as the best species to keep in colonies of 10, there are many that can be. Some would require a huge tank and some could get by with a group of ten in as little as a 5 gal tank. The best scorps to keep communually are Pandinus imperator and many other Pandinus scorps (good in 10 and 20 gal long, though for 10, 20 gal is recommended), Heterometrus spinifer and longimanus (good in 55 gal), Centruroides margaritatus, exilicauda and others (excellent in 10-20L gal), Mesobuthus martensii (excellent in 5-10 gal). Depends on what you are wanting as far as potency goes. Pandinus and Heterometrus are amongst the weaker venom scorps and very popular in the trade (usually obtain around 6.5-7.5 inches for both and cost around $10-20 ea.). They are also rather slow moving and are both rainforest scorps. Centruroides can pack one heck of a punch for C. exilicauda and be quite weak for C. margaritatus (some are rainforest class and others are semi arid or dry) and M. martensii (semi arid or dry) packs a very good punch (Centruroides commonly ranging around 4 inches and cost $25-30 ea, and Mesobuthus commonly around 2 inches at $5-15 ea.).
:
:Peace,
:Gillian
Great advise Gillian. *winks*
adios,
edw.